Runway Roundup: BFW S/S26

AFFECT selects every runway that you don't want to miss in the hustle and bustle of fashion week.

Balletshofer

Please fasten your seatbelts. Balletshofer’s SS26 show took off at Berlin’s Tempelhof airport and landed somewhere between militant minimalism and sleek post-club futurism. The hangar became a stage for monochrome uniforms, ponchos, raw hems, and structured tailoring, all set to a hous, pulsating techno score. Lighting sliced through the space like searchlights, casting long shadows and heightening the tension between order and rebellion. Suitcases rolled by like visual metaphors for movement and control, while ponchos and sleeveless tunics softened the silhouettes. The show pulsed with quiet vulnerability: draped knitwear, loose layering, and grounded, functional footwear. Berlin, distilled: unbothered, precise, and always one step ahead.

Haderlump

Ex Libris, Ex Machina. With its latest collection, Haderlump reimagines the forgotten artistry of Ex Libris, those miniature, intricate bookplates once used to mark ownership of precious books as fashion objects and statements of identity. Copper engraving meets couture: Structured silhouettes, heavy fabrics, and organic textures explore themes of memory, authorship, and permanence in a digital age. Tough leather contrasts with soft linen; crisp cotton is paired with fluid fabrics. The collection is a tactile archive of tension—between past and present, hard and soft, personal and collective. The color palette feels bibliophilic: off-white, graphite, dust grey, black. Like faded pages from a long-forgotten library. And yet, nothing about this feels outdated.

SF10G

On a raw construction site , SF1OG’s SS26 show unfolded like a love letter to emotional chaos. Inspired by historic images of women driven mad by love, creative director Rosa Dahl turned heartbreak into silhouette, long skirts, corsetry, distressed lace, leather, and slouchy tailoring collided in a palette of decay and softness. Set in a haunting fabric forest, with sound by Gavriel August, the atmosphere was intimate and overwhelming. The collection fused antique craft with indie nostalgia and 2000s edge, snake prints, pinstripes, and raw textures echoing a time when feelings were too big for bodies. With a Converse collaboration, the Chuck Taylor as a high-top leather was reimagined. SS26 is romantic, fractured, unique.

LUEDER

Marie Lueder’s SS26 collection landed like a charged ceremony between myth and reality. Inspired by the legend of Saint George and the Dragon, “SLⱯY” redefines battle as a ritual of self-empowerment, where armor is both physical and emotional, and vulnerability becomes strength. Set in a raw, dystopian atmosphere, the collection married sculptural shoulders with fluid jersey shields and distressed fabrics that looked worn by psychic scars. Hoods and layered silhouettes recalled alchemic robes, while scorched finishes whispered of fire and renewal. Italian artisanal textiles from Tintoria Emiliana elevated the tactile experience, blending craftsmanship with post-digital urgency. The collaboration with UGG brought custom footwear that grounded the look in urban grit.This isn’t about conquering dragons outside but the battles we face within.

by Noémi Zak