Runway Roundup: COPENHAGEN S/S26
AFFECT selects every runway that you don't want to miss in the hustle and bustle of fashion week.
Baum und Pferdgarten
Saddle your horses, Baum und Pferdgarten’s Spring/Summer 2026 “Notes from the Grandstand” stormed into the season with contrasts turned into high art. Inspired by the thrill of Derby day, Creative Directors Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave spliced the grit of the racetrack with the spectacle of the grandstand, where sporting utility meets unapologetic glamour. Dove grey, olive, and brown formed the track’s earthy base, jolted awake by pink and violet pops. Stripes and Karo checks raced across the runway, echoing jockey silks in motion. The Hats? dramatic, sculptural, and impossible to ignore, set the tone for the entire show. Frilled details, vintage lace, and rosette trims reined in elegance. Dropped-waist dresses and draped blouses flowed like a victory lap and leather flashes kept the pace fresh. At full gallop, they managed to keep a perfect mix of precision and panache, whether you’re in the saddle or stealing the show from the stands.
Rolf Ekroth
In a dust-speckled clearing deep in Refshaleøen’s forest, the air shimmered with late-afternoon light streaming through the trees. It felt like stepping into a Nordic fairytale. The setting marked a decisive shift for the Finnish label Rolf Ekroth: Its first-ever outdoor show, trading the industrial gloom of previous seasons for sunlight, open air, and a sense of renewal. The palette earthy browns, natural tones, olive greens, and the rich depth of denim blue with camouflage patterns and Texture everywhere: puff-rock mini skirts and quilted puffer stitching, leather and mixed fabric patches, all cut through with bold checks and hand-sewn dots that caught the light as models moved. Bows appeared in menswear; bomber jackets were paired with men’s skirts; sporty Puma Speedcats grounded the looks in a low-slung cool. Hair came braided, adding a folkloric edge that tied the collection back to its woodland stage. Rolf Ekroth’s SS26 was proof that even in the forest, fashion can find its fastest stride.
Deadwood
Far below the marble lobby of Villa Copenhagen, in the cool, dim-lit catacombs, Stockholm-born Deadwood staged a post-apocalyptic dream. Their SS26 collection, Sands of Icarus, asked what happens when humanity flies too close to the sun and loses control of its own technology. Scorched-sand neutrals, olive drab, and terracotta earth tones bleeding into the silver glint of silica. constant collision, dry-rot canvas against sleek modern mesh, cracked hide pressed up against recycled aluminium panels. Each piece bore Deadwood’s signature DNA: every material rescued, reclaimed, reimagined into garments that felt both salvaged and futuristic. For this season, guest designer Salvatore Vignola added an unexpected softness to the label’s raw edge. Structured bomber-style outerwear and leather patchwork coexisted with fluid trousers, cropped jackets, and panels of light, almost ethereal fabrics. The interplay gave the collection a sense of duality : armour and fragility, warning and seduction. It was a story about choice in the face of collapse: resist change, embrace it, or let yourself dance to the hum of the coming sandstorm.
The Royal Danish Academy
This Year, the Royal Danish Academy’s SS26 graduate show unfolded like an open diary, each look a deeply personal reflection and an invitation to connect. Against a backdrop of global uncertainty, the runway radiated optimism, warmth, and a clear sense of individual identity. With graduates from nine countries, the collections blended traditional craftsmanship, cultural heritage, and queer history with modern experimentation. Sculptural tailoring met fluid drapery; intricate embroidery contrasted with sharp minimalism. The diversity in aesthetic was striking, yet all shared a commitment to meaning and substance. Clarity, paired with exceptional craft, gave the show its pulse: a declaration that the future of fashion lies in authenticity, connection, and the courage to tell personal stories in public spaces
MKDT Studios
Water arced high from the Gefion Fountain as Copenhagen paused for a runway woven into its streets. MKDT Studio turned the city’s landmark into a breathing stage, where the rhythm of rushing water set the pace for something slower, more deliberate. Creative director Caroline Engelgaar called it Reconnection a collection that asked what happens when fashion stops chasing the next moment and instead lingers in the one we’re in. The colour story whispered first: bone, stone, and sand neutrals layered like worn pages, interrupted by strokes of lavender-grey, chiffon yellow, and sage green, soft enough to blend into the palette, sharp enough to keep you looking. Tailoring was clean, grounding the fluid drape of shredded ramie and the tactility of layered checks. The clash was quiet but intentional, minimalism given texture, weight, and touch. In a week of maximal statements and amplified noise, MKDT’s SS26 didn’t fight for dominance. It stood still, let the city breathe, and reminded everyone watching that sometimes the most radical move in fashion is simply to slow down.
by Noémi Zak