Runway Roundup: PFW S/S26 Redefining Menswear

AFFECT selects every runway that you don't want to miss in the hustle and bustle of fashion week.

Dior Homme 

The world stand still for a second. The debut of Jonathan Anderson as the new Creative Director of Dior Men. His first collection was a refined blend of classic Dior codes and youthful rebellion, presenting elegant tailoring with unexpected twists: open blazers, deconstructed shirts, soft capes, and rich knitwear layered over denim. The looks felt both meticulously crafted and effortlessly cool, signaling a pivot toward modern romanticism and quiet sophistication. Anderson’s signature touch was evident in the subtle play of proportions, textures, and gender-fluid elements. The result? A collection that not only speaks to fashion insiders but is promissing for commercial success. As one fashion observer noted: “Dior’s probably thrilled not just for the aesthetic, but because this will sell.” This debut confirms that under Jonathan Anderson’s direction, Dior is embracing a younger, cerebral, and elevated high-fashion identity, without losing its Parisian roots.

Saint Laurent 

Saint Laurent’s SS26 menswear show stood out with a rich palette of earthy tones: burnt orange, chestnut, deep green, lime green, aubergine and egg yolk yellow – reminiscing on late summer light. The fabrics were exceptional: fluid satins, transparent chiffons and airy materials that seemed to float around the body, feeling sensual and easy. Strong, structured silhouettes with padded shoulders defined the tailoring, especially in sharply cut suits and elongated trench coats. Casual elements like windbreaker fabrics thrown over formal looks, neckties repurposed as belts, and sculptural sunglasses added an unexpected twist to the otherwise dressy aesthetic. The show took place within a sound installation currently on view in Paris, where resonating tones and a dimly lit space created a meditative, almost spiritual atmosphere that elevated the entire experience.

Louis Vuitton 

Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton SS26 presentation took place at the iconic Centre Pompidou in Paris, transformed into a futuristic playground with snake-patterned set pieces and modular cube structures. The soundtrack was nothing cinematic, reinforcing the immersive atmosphere that framed one of the most anticipated shows of the week. The front row featured an all-star lineup, including Beyoncé, Jay‑Z, Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, Zendaya, Naomi Campbell, Kim Kardashian, Tyler, the Creator, Jaden Smith and Lewis Hamilton. A neutral-toned color-blocking language dominated the collection, as rich shades of various brown, beige, cream were layered together with bold accents of aubergine and a deep, intense yellow. Clean tailoring softened by casual elements like windbreaker overlays and deconstructed pieces, creating a harmonious mix of formality and streetwear. In short, the show merged couture-level polish with youthful, urban energy, all amplified by the immersive Pompidou installation and a mood-altering soundtrack.

Kenzo 

The collection made a bold and vibrant statement at Paris Fashion Week, blurring the lines of gender expression and pushing the boundaries of traditional menswear. The collection embraced gender-fluid styling, with models showcasing shared silhouettes and interchangeable pieces. Vivid pinks, sunshine yellows, fiery oranges and bright reds injected a playful, youthful energy. Windbreakers and oversized suiting featured heavily, with dramatic shapes softened by corset-inspired contrasts, adding structure and subversive elegance. The collection was full of abstract patterns which appeared across jackets, shirts and shorts.

by Lareen Roth-Behrendt