No Risk, No Runway: Inside the World of Ruben Nowak

AFFECT caught up with Ruben, the mastermind and creative force behind Nowrubi, in his Berlin atelier. Surrounded by fabric rolls, sketches, and sculptural silhouettes, he spoke about boldness, discipline, and the evolution of a brand built on crafting uniforms with attitude. On the verge of his first Fashion Week show, the designer reflects on childhood influences, military structure, and the one-second wow moment that tells him a look is truly finished.

AFFECT: Who are you, what you do and where are we right now?
RUBEN NOWAK: Hi Affect. I’m Ruben, the founder of Nowrubi, and we’re here today in my studio.

A: What does Nowrubi stand for?
RN: Nowrubi stands for bold silhouettes, keyword: Crafting Uniformsdrawn from inspiration rooted in my past.

A: Did you always want to become a fashion designer, or did that happen gradually?
RN: It’s actually my second career path. After graduating from high school, I became an officer in the Air Force because I wasn’t entirely sure what I wanted to do. I committed to that path for several years, and along the way I discovered my passion for fashion. I taught myself how to sew, and at some point I decided: I have to give this a real try.

A: Did you have a role model growing up or do you have one now?
RN: Yes, an absolute role model for me is Virgil Abloh, who sadly is no longer with us. During my fashion design studies at HTW, I gave many presentations about him. I was incredibly grateful that he managed to open up the fashion world to the luxury market in a new way. He remains a major inspiration to me.

A: If your fashion were a feeling, what would Nowrubi be?
RN: Nowrubi embodies very cool silhouettes combined in bold ways. You don’t take yourself too seriously, but fashion still plays an important role.

A: Would you say your designs are typically Berlin, or do you move beyond that?
RN: Nowrubi was born during the time I’ve been living in Berlin. Of course, the city influences me, but there are also inspirations from outside of Berlin. I think on a broader scale and draw from multiple sources, not just one place.

A: What sets Nowrubi apart from other brands?
RN: With any brand, it’s about values and storytelling, about what the brand stands for. Ultimately, it depends on which values people want to identify with. As the face of the brand, I try to communicate that sense of boldness and the willingness to experiment.

A: This is your first solo show. What inspired the collection?
RN: It’s our first show at Fashion Week, and I’m slowly starting to feel a bit nervous, but also extremely excited that our team has been given this opportunity. The collection is called “Innocence.” Together, we looked back at our childhood and reflected on what shaped us, primarily in a positive way. We worked a lot with romanticization, and from that, three phases emerged. We interpret those three phases throughout the collection, and the silhouettes move through these different stages.

A: What shaped you most during your childhood?
RN: The way my parents raised me. I was allowed to try everything, sports, hobbies, time with friends. I was raised to be confident and learned that if you want something, you should try it. My time in the military later added discipline and structure. All of that shaped who I am today as a founder and designer.

A: How does a collection come to life? Are you more structured or purely creative?
RN: It happens in different phases. Sometimes it’s important to have no structure at all, just to let ideas flow freely. Other times, structure is necessary to stay on schedule. It always begins with the collection theme: What do we want to say? Then comes research, we explore silhouettes, analyze trends, source fabrics at trade fairs, and create numerous sketches. After that, we narrow our focus and develop specific silhouettes based on the concept.

A: What is the most difficult part of the process?
RN: The starting point, the collection framework. Breaking down the initial idea of “Innocence” into something concrete, like the three phases, was challenging. Once the concept is defined, though, we have all the tools to fully express ourselves creatively. That’s the more enjoyable part.

A: Was there a struggle with this collection?
RN: It took us some time to define the right framework. We didn’t want it to feel too obvious or too abstract. Finding that balance wasn’t easy this time.

A: How does this collection or show differ from previous ones?
RN: I hope people will see it as a clear evolution of the brand. For this show, we thought much bigger, almost creating silhouettes that might not even be reproducible because they’re so elaborate. In the past, the focus was more on ready-to-wear and reproducibility. This time, we consciously wanted to break away from that.

A: Do you want to continue in that direction?
RN: Yes, I feel very comfortable with this more complex and artistic approach for the show and then translating it into a ready-to-wear collection afterward.

A: What do you focus on most in the final phase?
RN: Last week, we had a full-house casting in the studio. Looks were being tried on, rearranged, refined. It was crucial to find models who truly embody our vision. Now there are additional responsibilities, set-up, location, security, PR management.

A: Do you select models based on instinct?
RN: Yes. It’s important for us to meet every model personally. Of course, this could be handled entirely through agencies, but we want to see and speak to everyone ourselves to feel whether the energy and vibe align. In the end, it’s very intuitive.

A: When do you know a look is finished?
RN: Someone puts it on and either there’s that one-second wow moment, or there isn’t. If we feel it instantly, it’s done. If not, we keep working. The same applies when the look meets the model.

A: Are there last-minute changes before the show?
RN: Right now, we have a solid plan. Whether everything will be executed exactly as envisioned remains to be seen, we don’t have much experience yet. I hope we can stay true to our red thread throughout the day.

A: What message would you give to aspiring fashion designers?
RN: Use social media. Show your work. Perfectionism is the biggest killer. Just put your work out there.

A: If you could speak to your younger self, what would you say?
RN: Stay bold.

A: Perfect, thank you
RN: Thank you Affect

  by Noémi Zak

PHOTOGRAPHY BY svenlrch