Runway Roundup: Paris Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 26/27
AFFECT selects every runway that you don't want to miss in the hustle and bustle of fashion week.
DIOR
Dior Menswear FW26 felt restless and deliberately off. Classic tailoring was twisted with punk and romantic details, making the collection more about attitude than polish. It wasn’t trying to be easy or wearable, it was trying to provoke. The palette stayed muted, but the silhouettes did the work: cropped jackets, warped proportions, layered textures, tailoring that looked intentionally wrong. Tweed and denim clashed with ornate fabrics, giving the looks a sharp, theatrical edge. As a show, it was confident and conceptual. As a wardrobe, it was hit-or-miss, strong individual pieces, but a vision that lived better on the runway than in real life.
Hermès
Véronique Nichanian’s final menswear collection for Hermès was a quietly emotional moment in the calendar. After 37 years defining the house’s menswear voice she delivered a refined, material-driven lineup rooted in silk turtlenecks, leather trousers and luxe overcoats in muted tones, with select standout items like a glossy khaki crocodile-skin suit. The presentation was less about trends and more about decades of cumulative craft before handing the reins to Grace Wales Bonner.
Louis Vuitton
Overall, Louis Vuitton FW26 was a nice collection. Solid, wearable, well styled. It did not bring anything radically new and it did not really wow on the runway. But many of the pieces will look great in real life. As a show, it played it safe. As a wardrobe, it works well. The collection leaned into a very wearable palette. Beige, khaki, brown, muted green, navy, grey, with occasional softer tones like pale pink and light blue. Fabrics were where things got more interesting. Technical nylon, water repellent finishes, coated surfaces, classic checks, leather and wool appeared throughout. A lot of the pieces mixed traditional tailoring fabrics with performance materials, shine and sparkly stones which gave the looks a practical edge. Silhouettes were clean and straightforward. Straight trousers, relaxed fits, cropped jackets, slightly oversized outerwear. Nothing extreme, nothing experimental. Jackets clearly carried the collection. Blousons, parkas, quilted styles and tailored coats stood out as the strongest pieces. These are the items that will translate easily into street style and everyday wardrobes. Under Pharrell Williams the focus was clear from the start. Clothes that are meant to be worn. Clothes that make sense in real life, especially in a city like Paris.
Jacquemus
Jacquemus fall winter 2026 was a beautiful, very controlled runway moment. The show featured both menswear and womenswear walking together, which immediately gave it a cohesive flow. There was strong buildup online before the show, and the presentation delivered on that anticipation without trying too hard. The clothes were chic and polished, with a slightly playful edge on the hair. The overall feeling was elegant, almost like dressing for a very expensive horse race. Structured silhouettes, fluid dresses, sharp coats, and exaggerated accessories defined the collection. Hats played a big role and felt intentionally dramatic, paired with precise hair styling that added to the visual identity of the show. The color palette stayed mostly muted, with creams, browns, blacks, and soft neutrals, but moments of yellow, blue, and brighter tones broke through and kept it fresh. It was a confident, well staged collection that focused on mood, silhouette and beauty rather than trends. Overall, it felt elegant and very sure of itself.
KidSuper
KidSuper FW26 was energetic, playful, and very on brand. Colm Dillane once again turned the runway into a cultural moment, blending fashion, storytelling and art. The collection featured relaxed fits, graphic elements and bold visual ideas that felt youthful and expressive. There was fun and energy throughout the show, with pieces that leaned more toward creativity than polish. Colors were expressive, fabrics varied and silhouettes stayed loose and casual. This was not a collection about tailoring or refinement. It was about personality and mood. Some pieces felt stronger than others, but the overall impression was clear. KidSuper continues to thrive in its own lane. Not everything needs to be wearable for everyone, and this collection embraced that fully. It was one of the buzziest off-schedule presentations of the week with a youthful, expressive DNA that’s resonating on the street.
Dries Van Noten
Julian Klausner’s second menswear collection for Dries Van Noten stood out for its confident use of knitwear and pattern play. Knit pieces drove the season’s layering strategy with jacquards, stripes and bold print mixes that brought colour and texture into the house’s typically considered aesthetic. It felt like a grounded evolution of the brand’s identity, still familiar just refreshed. The color palette mixed darker bases with richer accents, bringing warmth and depth to the runway. Dries FW26 was one of the more balanced shows of the week, combining visual interest with wearability.
by Lareen Roth
all photos by vogue runway